er than appearance, the most str

2021/05/21

Other than appearance, the most striking difference between these and Western planes is the direction of planing: Japanese planes cut on the pull stroke, similar to Japanese saws. Graphite left behind in the throat indicates high spots that need further trimming. And it is just in the properties of the blades where we find the main differences. Hello. Unfinished garage becomes a woodworking haven. Thanks for the info and links. Lay the iron centered on top of the stock as shown, and trace its width to establish the width of the rabbets. I find that laminating idea quite fascinating and was wondering if you have any other examples of it being used. Instead of 72,41 only 65.00 Only until end of month, Compatible with Juuma T-tracks Instead of 10,67 only 8.50 Only until end of month, Turn your work table, your workbench and your cabinets into mobile units! | Poltica de cookies | Todos los derechos reservados. Share it with us! Comment * document.getElementById("comment").setAttribute( "id", "a2176d22f1c2f6b1c038c20f4b816fd1" );document.getElementById("a77b89825f").setAttribute( "id", "comment" ); Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Were pulling for ya. The planes are mostly designed for, and work best on various kinds of softwoods. Before glue up I rough sketched the outline onto the white oak. They left behind a smooth, but slightly wavy or grooved surface. The blacksmith starts with a hard, but brittle, steel for the cutting edge. The two ends of the plane body, or dai, are named "atama" for the front, or toe, and "shiri" for the back, or heel. For Western style, I'd recommend Garrett Hack's The HandplaneBook and one (or more) of these three: Aldren Watson's Hand Tools: Their Ways and Workings, Peter Korn'sThe Woodworker's Guide to Hand Tools, or Andy Rae's Choosing and Using Hand Tools; all three have good hand plane sections. are optimized for Western-style tools, though I do use a Japanese dovetail saw.

A couple of good choicesfor a first plane would be either a LN adjustable mouth low angle block plane or a LN bronze #4. Their hardness and resistance to torsion make them the best option. They are usually set between 25 - 40 degrees, Hi, I've added your project to "The Ultimate Collection of DIY Workshop Tools" Collection. As with sharpening any blade, flatten and polish the back before focusing on the bevel. The wood must be chosen with special care. If you are going to be using mainly domestic hard woods, then Western style planes are probably a better bet. The position is based on a 60/40 division of the length of the board, with 60% in front of the iron and 40% behind it. Which hand planes should a power-tool woodworker buy first? Line C. Transfer the lines from Line C across the sole of the plane. If you have large hands a wider dai may be more comfortable when flattening a board, I find my fingers dragging when using a thinner dai. Don't fret; you can find perfectly suitable planes for no more than you would spend on a new Western plane. I am making a high angle plane at 65 degrees, although the normal blade angle is around 45 degrees. The thick end is 5/16" and the thin end is 3/16". Consider one of these three other clear finishes for your next project. Another artisan fashions the dai from a hardwood blank, rough-fitting the throat for the blade. In traditional Japanese woodworking, craftsmen do not use sandpaper. And, if this process makes you nervous, your tool vendor can point you in the right direction for additional guidance. In this way, we get a movement that allows working for hours without a great effort on your arms and legs. This cut is 1/4 inch shorter of blade width on each side. Mr. Inomoto also provided the directions for the individual steps based on his own methods for building traditional plane bodies. Better-quality Japanese planes feature bladesand often chip breakersforged by highly skilled blacksmiths [Photo B]. Since you're removing so little material, this process takes almost no time at all. Japanese planes are usually flat sawn, sometimes rift sawn.

The LA AM block plane is probably the most versatile plane made. With the eastern, we refer to Japanese hand planes, some fabulous tools for woodworking. Another must do project :DIf you (like me) need some more instructions how to make the blade, look at this video for guidelines https://youtu.be/04EKQs04B4k. Mark the position of the mouth on the under side, or sole, of the board you are going to use for the stock. So draw the angle for the blade's bed and then trace the blades wedge shape over it with the blade about 1/8 inch away from the mouth(pic #4). Comparing a Japanese planer next to a Western planer. Our biweekly podcast allows editors, authors, and special guests to answer your woodworking questions and connect with the online woodworking community. This hollow spot is called the "shakumi" and because they are hand made, different with every iron smith and even every individual iron. Nicely executed. Having never actually laid hands on either, if the set up process is different between the two, I wont have to unlearn any ingrained habits. In no case they are suitable for roughing tasks. Beautiful project!! If you had to recommend three, which hand planes should I start with? Line L. Do the same with the chipbreaker, and mark its width centered inside the L Lines. The spear planes, with their short, slightly curved blades at the end of a long handle, were drawn two-handed over the wood. We will find from basic versions for beginners up to high quality blue steel blades for experts. If you have any suggestions or questions just comment. Such a grain orientation allows the plane to glide over the wood more smoothly, and wear on the sole is reduced. soaking ofuro japanese tub headrests detachable tubs If so (and even if not so), then I highly recommend that you buy a GOOD QUALITYhand plane as your first one, so that you have a solid base line on which to judge the quality and function of the rest of your plane acquisitions. As visible in pic #3, my blade sits to low, but no problem. If the lines are not accurate, the rabbet in the cheeks of the stock to take the edges of the iron of the plane could be too wide, and the iron will be loose in the stock and the plane cannot be used. Did you make this project? I want a tight mouth opening so I measure close to the blade. You can find out more about which cookies we are using or switch them off in settings. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google, Scraper plane leaves surface rougher than smoothing plane, Editor's Letter: Technology and the future of woodworking. I then tested the high angle plane on purpleheart, a very hard, tricky wood, and sweetgum, an interlocking grain wood that tears out, and the plane took off fine shavings leaving a nice glossy finish. Then tap the chip breaker firmly in place before planing. To do this we will use the corresponding Western hand planes. I've been doing more research, and I realize that by going the Japanese plane route, I won't be getting the "out of the box" experience, but that's actually not a big issue for me. Awesome project. Keep repeating this process, removing the high spots in the throat until the cutting edge of the blade drops to within a couple of millimeters above the mouth opening. I am making my barchelor work in university, its about plane with adjustable cutting angle. The consideration here is what you're going to use it for. There is no front knob, and no metal striking button. The standard method is to mortise out the bed with chisel. 2022 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved. After shaping, I used J.B. Weld to hold the three layers of metal together. Therefore, the first step is to make the planes blade. One thing that you will quickly discover is that you get what you pay for. Out of the box, the blade seats too high in the throat, so adjust the mouth of the dai using plane floats, small rasps, files, or a sharp chisel [Photo E, Sources]. If you have the time and you are interested in a wooden plane you might also consider making a Kernov style wood plane. To reduce friction, the soles of traditional Japanese planes are planed slightly concave. Line B. though it has only less than 300 members the knowledge is quite deep and people are very helpfull. Both of these planes together will take care of about 85% of your common planing needs. The thick, sharp blade and chip breaker work as a team to create thin shavings when properly fit into the dai. To offset the brittleness and add mass that dampens vibration while planing, the blacksmith laminates a softer steel on top. Clark & Williams, Steve Knight, and ECE all make excellent modern wooden hand planes. Transfer the profile of the back of the iron onto the top of the plane block, Line J. The Japanese plane is unique because the bottom is not flat. When drawing these two lines, you must be very careful. For example, the wedge-shaped blade tapers in thickness, which helps hold it in place. The measurements are available in pic #2. Showing various styles of Japanese planes. one member recently recommended the Gordon planes made in Australia as a reasonable substitute to midgrade japanese planes. The first step is to cut out, to a maximum depth of about a milimeter a shallow rabbet in the sole exactly corresponding to the outline of the mouth. Rout the recesses right to hold a lid upright. Plus tips, advice, and special offers from Fine Woodworking. When making a plane, start out with a slot of about a half a millimeter. very nice but body of wooden plain should be quarter sawn, not flat sawn, with grain running vertically. Converts from Western hand planes insist the steel in a Japanese plane provides a smoother finish on their work, with additional tactile feedback and an intimate connection with the workpiece. I guess it might be because any shrinkage would be less likely to cause warping in the base plane? You have outstanding qualities in soft woods. Finally, the plane is finished. In addition, they remain sharp for longer than white steel. Each product we feature has been independently selected and reviewed by our editorial team. You shouldn't be able to see any light between them at the cutting edge. The board for the body, or stock must be first be cut to length and made true and square on all six sides. While the one in the middle is the plane I make in this instructable. Therefore, there is a wide variety of blades and more than 20 families of Japanese hand planes, designed to adapt to each type of straightening. You can now cut the throat of the plane. Work slowly and keep checking your progress until the chip breaker sits flat. <>. As visible in the above picture with my materials, I have an old Wards Master blade laying around which will be the hard cutting edge, any good steel will work. What makes you say that? And I've bought several books and videos on planing that have helped me immensely. Make test cuts and adjust the blade until you get full-width, onion-skin-thin shavings that leave a smooth surface. Suzuki-ya 510-409-0217suzukitool.comHida Tool & Hardware Co. 510-524-3700hidatool.comWoodcraft 800-225-1153woodcraft.comPlane floats and rasps: Lee Valley 800-871-8158leevalley.com. The ideal plane for rabbeting, panel raising and trimming tenons. With these tools, achieving a truly flat surface first became possible. Note: these directions were documented in the Inomoto workshop in Sanjo, Japan, which specializes in the production of smoothing planes. Have a look at this video of our customer BergWerk how he made a DAI. Watch a video on how to set up a Japanese hand plane. The models for wooden planes with a fixed iron probably came from China or Korea. Its difficult to explane in english but I want to know what is japanese planes cutting angle? Install the blade and chip breaker and adjust the depth until the blade nearly protrudes through the bottom of the dai. The chip breaker or sub-blade is not necessary for the plane, but I will add one for demonstration. Unlike Western planes, where the footprint of the sole determines their primary usage, Japanese planes are classified by their blade width, with wider blades intended for smoothing wide panels. The two narrow strips along the edges of the blade and the area directly behind the cutting edge form a flat reference surface. we could use the inherant properties of the wood to both hole the plane square in the long term and stabilise the wood and to boot use much cheaper timber. Japanese plane makers mark the angle with a traditional graduated carpenters square, but you can also use a sliding bevel and protractor. It is possible that as the wood dries over the years, the sole of the plane can become slightly hollowed. File and smooth the chipbreaker so it sits flat on the blade without gaps at the cutting edge. If the halves do not align or the blade doesn't fit, chisel out the waste. While the tradition of Western hand planes tended towards the technological improvement of the brush itself, the Japanese ones focused on improving the brushing technique. A steel or wood counter blade to avoid splinters, A nut to hold the blade and the counter blade. on Step 7. The most common are the Kanna. The blade is around 4 inches long and 2 inches wide. If it is possible, it is better to choose a hand plane with blue steel. the blade was reverseable to provide a scraping action in tough woods. On most smoothing planes, the sole contacts the wood at the toe of the plane and just in front of the mouth. display: none !important; Their handling and most importantly learning to set the iron using light taps with a hammer requires some time and practice to learn well enough to get good results. The corners of the breaker hammered over to create a tight fit between the blade and rod.

If you are really set on using wooden planes, then you might also consider either new or vintage Western wooden planes. this is the login page for people who like and use Japanese tools. Add a bevel the tops edges for comfort, but do not touch the bottom edges, they are to remain square. Finally, set the depth and lateral position of the cutting edge with light taps on the blade [Photo H]. My chip breaker is half the length of the blade and is made of soft metal. Rabbeting a shelf; Strength vs. appearance, Editor's Letter: A new tool with every project. So use a blank in Kashi wood, or a well seasoned blank from a species with similar properties, such as red beech, hornbeam, or fine grained maple. Sight along the sole to judge the blade protrusion and parallelism to the sole. If you are looking for a "ready to go out of the box" plane, then a Japanese plane is probably not what you want. Also, the other items I have (workbench, vises, etc.) If we add a blade of high quality, we achieved a completely smooth finish. And then you go down the line. jig barry planes thicknessing hand barron david wood thicknesser planer Also, the cost of a Japanese plane is significantly less than a similarly sized Lie-Nielsen, which is a bit of a consideration.

I used a Ron Hock blade and you can use the same blade in any number of plane bodys as well as having fun using different woods to make your plane. Start your 14-day FREE trial - and get building! Im still in the tool acquisition stage and need to get a plane (or three). Finally, the relatively light color of the wood makes sense, as it is easy to check the position of the dark plane iron because of the contrast between the two. Some blade-makers have such a reputation for quality that their planes cost well over $1,000. This kind of fine adjustment, removing tiny shavings of material at a time, can need to be repeated dozens of times. But after you do it once, it becomes second nature. They are wonderful to use once set up, but I do not like the expense of the blades or dealing with sharpening the hard steel and tapping out the back. The combination of both is optimal. How is the blade holding up? A Japanese hand plane is also known as a Kanna. Until that time, surfaces were smoothed with the so-called spear planes, called yari ganna. The major difference from western planes is the Japanese plane is pulled, not pushed. If you like Japanese hand planes, in the next few days we will see the best brands of these beautiful tools , Filed Under: Woodworking Tagged With: craftsman, hand planes, joinery, tools, wood, woodworker, woodworking, Your email address will not be published. 7 years ago Is it OK to copy projects from the magazine? In-depth articles, up-close photography, and detailed illustrations. Bamboo flooring might be worth a try. Reply Using fine sharpening stones, hone the beveled leading edge so that shavings easily glide over it. Im getting started in woodworking, and am concentrating on hand tools and small projects first. The set up process for both are the same, in the sense that you are tuning the plane -- and generally the same parts of the plane -- prior to using it. You've also ignored a third alternative, wooden planes in the western style, which you might also want to look into. Please enable Strictly Necessary Cookies first so that we can save your preferences! You want a smooth edge and polished surface so shavings slide up and out of the throat, but the edge doesn't need to be razor sharp. However, I have used some of LV's other tools; all quite good, and their customer service is superb, as is LN's. My preference is for the Western style (nothing "wrong" with Japanese planes, just personal preference). While the cost of a "mass-market" Japanese plane is less than some of the LNs, if you buy comparable quality, you find that Japanese planes are as expensive or more expensive than the equivalent LNs. The width of the planes mouth depends on its use. When chiseling out the waste, you must use your eye and the C and K Lines that you marked on the sides of the body, to cut the bevels and the cheeks of the throat accurately. The breaker is sharpened like the blade and is held in place by a rod, I used a nail. What I like about them is the simplicity, the pulling action, it seems to give me more control on the cut, and the heavier blade, it reduces chatter. In hardwoods, as you would expect, is harder to work and require better blades and greater dedication. Heres how. It will absolutely work the way it's pointed out in the ible, but for some reason that I don't know, the Japanese plains are quarter sawn. In those areas, a strip of wood about 1 - 1.5 cm is left in place and the rest of the sole is planed or scraped away slightly, to about the thickness of a piece of paper. Just glue a piece of thick paper to the blades bed.

Now is time the square the body by planing the sides, top and bottom. I have used both Japanese style and Western planes. The grain should run parallel to the sole of the plane or slant slightly down toward the iron.

On planes like this one, with a chipbreaker fitted, the angle on the face of the throat away from the iron is about 80 degrees. In fact, when shopping for a Japanese hand plane, you'll find them categorized by the blacksmith's name. If not, any issues with the blade shifting side to side or popping out of the wedge? Cookie information is stored in your browser and performs functions such as recognising you when you return to our website and helping our team to understand which sections of the website you find most interesting and useful. Therefore, today we want to dedicate this post to see the main features and applications. For hardwood, an angle of 42 degrees is recommended. If mainly soft woods, then Japanese planes make good sense; for hard wood, somewhat less good sense (this is not to say that Japanese planes won't work on hard woods -- they do -- just that they tend to be more oriented toward softer woods). -- they require more tuning than they're worth, and for all your work and effort, you will still end up with a mediocre plane, at best. This website uses Google Analytics to collect anonymous information such as the number of visitors to the site, and the most popular pages. Difficult? This feature perhaps was borrowed from Western tools at that time. However, the plane functions fine and is holding up.

That being said the Lie Neilsen planes are a joy to use and other than a little bit of sharpening they are ready to go right out of the box. IMHO there is much more expertise available (here, in books, and in classes and clubs) to help one use a Western plane, so since I live here I chose the tools most often used here. This is the first time. The chip breaker is the width between the cheeks of the body(pic #1). The right position for the blade to sit(pic #4) is about 1/8 inch from the mouth opening. If you decide to go with Western metal planes, buy either LN, LV, or Clifton, or go for vintage (pre-WWII) Stanley, Millers Falls, Sargent, etc. Although they are very sharp they don't have the heft to reduce chatter. For the body, any hard, durable wood will work. That said, if you're a guy who likes to chart his own course and is willing to work a little harder to get the information you need, there's no doubt that equivalently great work can be done with either set of tools. It should be straight-grained and tension-free, and should have been allowed to season at least two years. The sole of the finished plane also have to be the side which is closer to the bark. Traditional Japanese hand planes consist of: As in the West, there is a wide range of measures for hand planes. You work much closer to the wood with the Japanese planes than with the Western styles. First, remove and sharpen the blade. Overall, I spent about 4 hours making the plane, although had to wait several days for drying glue. They also require significantly more effort and work to "set up" before use. How many degrees? I'd stay away from a thin blade, like the type with the replaceable blades where you screw in a new blade on a non replaceable iron. e.g you're not gonna get any bows. Planes with a chipbreaker on the iron first appeared at the end of the 1900s. What kind of wood is best for this Japanese hand planes? Kashi wood is very strong and resists splitting, and so there are seldom problems with cracks or splinters in the body. My goal is for my work to outlast me. Space on each side of the blade permits lateral adjustment to keep the cutting edge parallel to the sole. The blacksmith stamps his mark on every plane blade. When the attack angle is lower, the cut is smoother. With the depth of the blade almost set, continue to file the side grooves until they allow no more than 116 " of space for lateral blade adjustments [Photo F]. I was interested in maybe getting a Japanese plane to start with. Their simple design, without mechanical blade adjusters, has changed little over hundreds of years. Lay the body on its side and mark the angle of the planes iron. Now you need to take the iron, and measure, on the back side of the iron, how deep and wide the concave area is.

You should leave about 0.5 mm of clearance between the sides of the chipbreaker and these lines so that it is possible to make small adjustments in the placement of the chipbreaker in the finished plane. Informacin adicional: En la Poltica de Privacidad de Labois encontrars informacin adicional sobre la recopilacin y el uso de su informacin personal por parte Labois, incluida informacin sobre acceso, conversacin, rectificacin, eliminacin, seguridad y otros temas.