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2021/05/21

frp blower woodworking collector dust fan For my airfoil impeller, I used 1/2" clearance. My Dust Collection Basics page covers much of what a hobbyist woodworker should know about collecting the dust in their workshop. I just want a system that I can turn on when I need it, empty the collection barrel when it gets full and enjoy using the system while knowing I am protecting my family's and my lungs. We used a Dwyer Instruments 4015 model Magnehelic gauge with a Dwyer 166-6 pitot tube for measuring the pressure and computing the air flows. I needed an oversized hole in the blower housing that will let me easily slip the housing on and off. I built an 18" because that is all the room I have with enough clearance for my garage door. We double checked our gauges and work. This hole is big enough to let the motor and impeller hang from their support while removing the cyclone without having to lift the blower up and down. You can order Farr compatible filters from Wynn Environmental for less cost. They simply boxed these filters and sent them via expensive carrier resulting in some shipping damage and high shipping costs. Does it matter? I slipped a couple of threaded knobs through these holes and drew them tight to hold the template firmly in place for routing. (916) 635-6784 O.D. That means this is a poor solution for larger shops and for shops where you are not willing to regularly inspect and clean the impeller to make sure it does not get out of balance. It shows how I mounted the blower on a separate board that then mounts on top of the top of the blower shroud. I'm going to try and make them do. That site showed that the 12" material movement impeller I purchased was only going to give me an efficiency rating of about 40% versus the high-end backward inclined (BI) blowers and backward curved at closer to 60% and airfoil (AF) impellers at near 80%. This is not a hill to die on! In fact, the cost of a full cyclone system using this approach should be about the same as buying a 2-hp dust collector that will pick up the chips, but not protect your health. I do not think it will be a problem provided those who use this unit minimize their static pressure and do not block the airflow totally. First, you said the bottom of your blower is going to mount on the cyclone outlet. Sorry! The more you clean the shorter the filter life. For this blower to work, it needs a very efficient cyclone, minimal resistance air filters, good hoods, and a sound ducting design. The full height needs a 3 hp motor but moves about 50% even more air. Now center the impeller on where it will go double checking its orientation..

Even the larger airfoil will not be able to overcome the static pressure in such a large shop. I bought one, tested it with my 7.5" of resistance and it worked well without the stalling and buffeting problems until the resistance went over 8". Unfortunately, airfoil impellers need a constant supply of air and can stall if the pressure goes over 7" creating destructive buffeting when they run out of air. I strongly recommend that you either build my cyclone design or buy a kit from us because only the 5 hp small cyclone move ample air and none of the small shop cyclone provide ample separation to work with good fine filters. Regardless, the buffeting was minimal and did not seem appreciable even with the inlet totally blocked. I've had great service and support with excellent prices on filters, flex hose and hose clamps from Wynn Environmental that Jack Diemer found and referred me to. When? Would that work equally well, and do you know which Farr filter to buy? I will attach my supports to that plate and my ceiling beams. The results of that test showed we can run this motor all day long moving lots of air while driving this big impeller without a problem of drawing too much current or overheating. and the square root of that is 4.43" to make a square outlet with the same area. How did you test this blower? They did not have anything galvanized in the size and thickness I wanted, so I got metal that was not plated and plan on doing some serious painting with epoxy appliance finish because the wood coming in hits hard enough that it releases water and generates heat. Dividing 28.313 square inches (the surface area of my 6" duct) by 144 square inches (the area in one square foot of a duct in inches) times that 7160 gave a 1407 CFM! A 12" half-height airfoil driven by only a 2 hp motor is rated at 1200 CFM at 7"sp. The problem with an airfoil is when they hit their peak pressure you get minimum airflow and you cannot restrict the flow like a normal fan. Many are now using a single 300 square Farr compatible filter from Wynn Environmental instead of the two Torit compatible units. The template was taped to the top piece then holes were drilled.

What we found was that wide open using all 6" diameter ducting the most we could draw with this impeller was 8.5 amps. Initially I recommended that this would be a piece that I would buy with the impeller, but have since found that these special inlets are very costly. I then found better sources or impellers. We came up with a way to modify his firm's standard airfoil impeller with extra vanes to minimize the buffeting problems. The issue is our blades, bits and cutters often launch the fine dust at over 100 miles an hour and even our biggest blowers rarely provide more than about 40 miles an hour air speed, so step one is fixing the hoods. Now make holes for the carriage bolts that hold the blower halves together. Now make some holes for your blower impeller and your blower inlet. These all poly filters need a minimum of 250 square feet but are recommended to be a full 500 square feet for my 1000 CFM airflow. Some sanding and I ended up with a near perfect spiral template to use for cutting my grooves! I'm a hobbyist with an insane job. I called about buying one of those specially shaped inlets and they charge a fortune for them! My testing found most cyclone and blower vendors sell systems that get about half their advertised maximum airflows. In fact, if you only have a small one open, you really should open a larger one at the same time to make sure you keep up ample airflow.

With an average two car garage sized shop running about 10" of static pressure, we cannot use an airfoil impeller in shops larger than a one car garage. He started blaming the small shop owners and refused to make repair.

The plastic was easier to work with. The second was to make sure that the modifications minimized any potential of stalling at higher static pressure loads that could damage the impeller or motor. Once the top cutout was done, bolting the top and bottom boards together let me lay the impeller down well centered then trace the inlet exactly. Finally, a few have written that they used a bank of shop vacuum filters such as those made by Clean Stream. I might use my roller to create the flare.

While looking for my impeller I made up my mind to buy the inexpensive Harbor Freight motor that was on sale. You name your own price, but they will not accept your order at the prices Wynn charges. In hindsight, having three pieces actually worked in my favor as they were far easier to work with and bend. I wanted to be able to mate to a 6" ID piece of S&D PVC. It promised to be an excellent solution for other small shop users as well. By slowly blocking the inlet I was finally able to generate a little bit of stalling at about a 2" circular opening. It was left over from making one of my portable massage tables, but I like to use this material for templates because it is flat, strong, smooth, and does not have any voids. Those lucky enough to find the all spun bond polyester truck air filters report these can be washed up to four times and they work fairly well but because they are not coated with release agents our heavy wood dust volumes rapidly cause them to plug and need far more cleaning that those who get filters made for the heavy wood dust loads. Is this the right blower for me? What were your test results? If this does not make good sense, then please read my Dust Collection Basics pages.

With an extended 6" pipe in place to limit airflow sized in length to meet the test parameters, this impeller/blower measured at 3.2" of water static pressure. MDF should be plenty strong for the blower top and bottom. Too many things went wrong. What amperage did the motor draw? I did this to get the sizing/spacing right and to let me make the blower-housing mount separately from the motor and impeller. My friend Alan used a single pleated Farr cartridge filter and it works well for him, but I recommend a pair of these sized filters to minimize cleaning and how often you must replace. I've also recently heard of good service and pricing from Filter Mart on the all poly Torit compatible filters like I first used. We can get by with just 450 CFM to our larger tools if we just want to do "chip collection" meaning keep our floor clear of the sawdust and chips we would otherwise sweep up with a broom. I think it is foolish to build a blower that moves less air than is needed to meet the higher standard. To use my Dwyer magnehelic gauge I needed a piece that was at least 60" long with a hole 9" from the face of the blower. Those chips worked on highly compressed smoke. This particular airfoil impeller with its special design can handle up to about 8". There are two major problems with airfoil impellers. I actually used some thick Melamine left over from another project instead of MDF. Why did you check the motor amperage? I've been banging my head into the wall for an hour. Conversely, some motor makers use two opposite standards for determining the direction of rotation. When both fit just right without having to force anything, I installed the pieces. Calculate the size outlet wanted. An airfoil needs a steady supply of air without too much resistance or it stalls. My reason for wanting an airfoil impeller is of course that their performance is phenomenal. From my measurements, I concluded that as long as you have at least a 60" long piece of pipe holding the airflow from getting out of control, you can make that opening as large or small as you would like. Do you have a simple drawing giving a cross section through the center of the assembled blower? Working over a $5 tapered HVAC reducer that goes from 10" to 8" to make it a 9" to 8" would work and not be too difficult to do. Since I can't tell the exact sizes for your impeller, you need to take the time to figure out what will work best for yourself. Rancho Cordova, CA 95742 I then flipped it over and double-checked to make sure that was also true on the other side. With lots of fooling and adjustment, I finally got it so that it would lay in the groove without much tension. I may make a little smaller metal based case, simply because I have a room problem where that big blower will be in the way of my garage door. These pose a serious fire danger. What did the motor cost, from which firm, why did you pick that motor? You say you made the steel for the blower sides from metal that was 6" tall. This means they can build up wood shavings and stringy material. That firm continued to sell them without paying me anything, but over half ended up with ruined impellers.

Multiplying by the duct size in square inches divided by 144 square inches gave a real 1407 cubic feet per minute (CFM) at whatever we connect this to. With that plus the roughly 3/8" more from using a router with collar to cut things out, I would have a plenty big enough outlet width.

I used a heat gun, some thick gloves and built mine outside with a fan blowing the dangerous vapors away.

After too many complaints and ruined motors I finally asked the new owner to stop sales and pull my name and endorsement off their pages. I worked closely with their engineer and we came up with a special vane that lets the airfoil work with about one water column inch more pressure before it stalls, making it an excellent solution for a small one-car garage sized shop provided the cyclone is vented outside instead of into filters.

I bought an airfoil impeller from that same firm for my 3 hp motor and 6" is too short. The bottom line is this impeller is nothing short of incredible. Mine are all polyester, but cost me double what the poly paper blended filters cost. Please don't mess this up for the rest of us by failing to have your information already all figured out! You clearly show one of the sandwich pieces with a 3" hole yet later I see one with a big hole and the other with about a 6" hole for PVC. What really happened? Do you have any other suggestions? The filters and 6" diameter duct also added too much resistance and that creates heavy stalling and chattering that ruins motor bearings and caused one fire. This store bought unit is a touch pricey at about $55 but well worth it with the airfoils. in. Residential Control Systems Inc. We wanted to ensure the actual current it drew did not exceed the motor's designed runtime rating located on the motor plate. We agreed an airfoil impeller is NOT appropriate for dust collection systems that have a high static pressure, uses filters, uses ducting smaller than 6", or where at least one blast gate is not always open. I purchased a total of five different airfoil impellers all sized just right to move the 800 to 1000 CFM I wanted through my cyclone. Next form the metal and put into the grooves. They should go with 6" ducting and none less than 4", plus open large cartridge filters and always keeping one blast gate open to avoid the buffeting.

I cheated and had them cut right on at my metal shop on their big plate cutter. He agreed to sell at their quantity 100 price which is about half of what other airfoil impellers of the same size cost without modifications. This will move lots more air, but caused at least three of their motors to burn up during that magazine testing. By using a static pressure calculator that computes the overall resistance my system built with 4" ducting computed out to have over 13" of resistance and that resistance dropped to 8.5" with 6" ducting. Maybe, this picture might help. I used the larger impeller and very large ducts, so could filter. I personally use the Wynn "nano" filters because they provide much better protection for not much more cost. I bought a 12" DC-1200 impeller and it did not quite move the same as my larger and taller Cincinnati Fan 12" impeller. I enjoy making things in wood as a form of stress relief. Trust me, my first one let the smoke out and put me a day behind on this project waiting for a store to open to go buy a replacement. After going through the Dwyer formulas and cross checking this comes out to a whopping 7160.34 feet per minute (FPM) airflow. Why did you make the 3" hole? I was in a hurry to get those results posted so did not spend the kind of time on mine I should have. Regardless, once I had the Delta motor I ordered the impeller to fit on a 7/8" motor shaft with a 3/16" keyway. That amp reading says that I can safely open the blower inlet as long as the cyclone stays connected to the 6" ducting without concern about burning up the motor. This means that keeping the total system resistance as low as possible is vital.