now a NC\NF stud is available fo

2021/05/21

I know a NC\NF stud is available for this application yet some hub holes only had a few threads left in very bottom of hub bolt hole and available studs were too short. It was a 5/8 grade eight allen bolt. i only used nut's for years and welded down inside them. I agree every case is different. But try not to break it! the guy who showed me the flat washer trick, made the process even easier! If you do not have the proper drills and taps or a tap size chart you may be correct in your case. There was a group of four holes with two broken off. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Because 1 You have to be dead center, which can be hard on the side of a tractor 2 You have to drill straight into the bolt, which can be a challenge 3 How do you get the tap to cut only the bolt and not the cast threads? I thread the ready rod until it bottoms out softly. It is a life saver if you have a broken bolt that someone else has tried to drill out by hand and the drill wandered into the cast iron. Even in my wheelchair chained fast to the mold I was able to drill it out and save the original threads. Then cut it off long enough to fit f\t hub flange, lock plate and regular nut. If it is bottomed really tight you might have a problem. 2 You have to drill straight into the bolt, which can be a challenge You hold something square beside the drill bit if you lack the dexterity to know when the drill is square with the hole. It's rare for there not to be any room under a bolt even in a blind hole, because of the cone made by the original drill tip. The bolt in question in this thread for me would have started as it did. Once you break thru the bottom of the broken bolt it will collapse some and take the pressure off, and can probably be turned out with a new sharp easy out type extractor. Sometimes that works. Keep drill square and yes make a jig if possible. I carefully measured the location of all four holes. I will start doing that today. What works on one bolt may not work on the next. I carefully measured the location of all four holes. I hope I didn't offend you, as well you didn't offend me by accusing me of guessing about something I had never done. rail iron railing repair wrought rusted handrail l160 surface installation simple It is a life saver if you have a broken bolt that someone else has tried to drill out by hand and the drill wandered into the cast iron. I ended up blowing it out with a torch.l I found drilling you have to be dead center. 1 You have to be dead center, which can be hard on the side of a tractor. Then (to make it easy) weld a larger hex nut to the washer and again allow to cool to ambient before wrenching on it. You first pilot drill you work with the ruler to make sure you are on center. "height": 57 Best of luck with nasty situations. Tried an easy out yet did not want to break easy out. 6 studs per hub flange and three home made lock plates to bridge two neighboring studs and bend corners of lock plates against nuts. I could never see the advantage. Dripped some penetrating oil in there for tomorrow. Go through the heat cool ATF cycle a couple of times and then try the lefties and drill with a cordless VERY slowly so you can stay on center with more control. All cases is not the case. Why not drill it out to tap size and remove the threads with a tap? If it needs more twist power I weld a lock washer on first, it makes a stronger weld when using common filler wire. Sometimes that works. I find drilling right through to bottom and then heat and lube helps when using easy-out. Carefully center punching the broke off piece and drilling can work, I like to use transfer punches for this. I have done that several times and it works pretty good. I have found for some odd reason if you heat something then pour ATf in it and heat it up again the ATF soaks in deep and that in turn makes it easy to get the part out after welding a washer and nut on, Heat it up then pour on some ATF let cool and heat again and more ATF. I purposely use the ready rod since it is a softer grade of steel material so I can drill and easy-out it. I have some atf drippings so will use that. I was just trying to explain in the only way I know how that every case can be different. The weld causes the broken bolt to expand. I've heard of welding a nut onto a stud. One time I had used my small round ended die grinder to clean-out hole and then tap and pick threads out. I make my own studs to hold full time hubs on with NC 3/8" ready rod. I thought of fabricating an extension yet decided to try my angle method. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. I spent the better part of last year pulling broken bolts and studs out of military aircraft. I do know that a lot people will not have the drills and taps which makes it tuff if needed. I remember the first time I did it was a Ford 7700 tractor AC compressor mount. But I do not question that it works for him. "name": "Cariboo4x4" I usually try welding onto them first but if that fails and it generally does when they break off flush or below grade then I just center punch the bolt and drill it. This bolt would not break loose with a torch red hot. You first pilot drill you work with the ruler to make sure you are on center. It was a 5/8 grade eight allen bolt. Once I get through the bolt I may try heating it and using a Proto easy out. 3 How do you get the tap to cut only the bolt and not the cast threads? Drilling to tap size and removing the threads works every time regardless of how stuck the bolt is. I could have heated it up with my heater but figured save time by just drilling it out. Repairing this kind of stuff for 50 years will prove that all bolt removal will not be the same. welding method is fastest, easiest way of anything tried. Repairing this kind of stuff for 50 years will prove that all bolt removal will not be the same. Yes they will back out a stud most of the times. it worked with stick welders best. After not having heat do the job I would have drilled it, removed what threads that were left and it would have been forgot. The paper washer acts as a spacer. Then cut it off long enough to fit f\t hub flange, lock plate and regular nut.

Right on! But try not to break it! My Case 530 is 1961 so that old broken bolt had possibly been rusting in there for 50 years or so. Most of the broken bolts I deal with are gauge bolts on propane tanks. Old has the idea. Even in my wheelchair chained fast to the mold I was able to drill it out and save the original threads. For some reason I've never had the desire to weld or use a torch in those cases. Why not drill it out to tap size and remove the threads with a tap? I will start doing that today. When the same subject comes up by one that have told me I didn't know what I was talking about I just think to myself, figure it out and don't open that thread again. I bought a coulple left handed drill bits yet the one I used just drilled right through the bolt (which is good). Yes they will back out a stud most of the times. I have some atf drippings so will use that. I get all kinds of broken off bolts, taps, drills broken into the widest variety of stuff. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", I have done that several times and it works pretty good. A handle welded on can be a godsend. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V. window.dataLayer = window.dataLayer || []; function gtag(){dataLayer.push(arguments);} gtag('js', new Date()); gtag('config', 'G-04SJ2KTSCK',{ cookie_flags: 'max-age=7200;secure;samesite=none' }); Welcome! John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. This post has been really interesting , I get myself into all sorts of strife trying to remove broken bolts and really want to try the washer and weld trick . Use magnification and a sharp scribe to make an x on the face of the bolt, then center punch.

Rod At the Hershey car show there is a guy who sells USA made bits and boy do they work nice! "@id": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/" Every time I try , the busted end throws the punch off line , I can't ever drill the exact middle and almost always make a pigs ear of a job out of it :( Last one I drilled ended up taking one side of the threads with it . cold chisel tekton inch Yeah drill out and chase the threads with a tap is my go to method.

Heat and penetrant oil are your friends.

I like the washer and nut idea. 4 I can weld a nut or a washer and nut on the stud and have it out before you can get the pilot hole drilled. It depends it if is broke from over tightening or from being stuck fast in the threads for one of several causes. Try it you'll be amazed. last choice = torch wont cut cast iron = blow it out with torch. the guy who showed me the flat washer trick, made the process even easier! I happened on welding on rusted studs when I backed a loaded Chevy truck into a shop and caught the exhaust pipe on the lip of the floor, broke all six studs off in the 350 V-8. I used to work for a spring and shank manufacturer, and removing broken bolts from dies was a daily experience. Repeat the heating and allowing to cool to ambient temp several more times, then weld a flat washer to the remains of the bolt, using as much heat as you can. Once I get through the bolt I may try heating it and using a Proto easy out. Try it you'll be amazed. I did the ATF and heat a few times and I will try washer nut idea. I drilled two matching tap holes in some 1 flat bar scrap to match the same holes in the 1/4 plate. I drilled two clearance holes for the two good holes . I remember being afraid to try it. Once you break thru the bottom of the broken bolt it will collapse some and take the pressure off, and can probably be turned out with a new sharp easy out type extractor. Welding a washer to it,then a nut by welding around the outside of it,instead of trying to weld through the little hole in the center of the nut is the way to go. One time I had used my small round ended die grinder to clean-out hole and then tap and pick threads out. You first pilot drill you work with the ruler to make sure you are on center. it worked with stick welders best. A carbide burr in a pneumatic drill can dimple the face to prevent the drill bit from walking off center. The neighbour's dog's ears turned blue from the swearing it heard . I do know that a lot people will not have the drills and taps which makes it tuff if needed. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", Repeat the heating and allowing to cool to ambient temp several more times, then weld a flat washer to the remains of the bolt, using as much "heat" as you can. The left hand colbalt bits are very sharp, expensive, and short. "datePublished": "2016-02-27", Plan your work and take your time and get on center first. To make a statement like this would only mean you have never done it and you base your expertise on opinion not experience. Usually if the damn thing was seized that good it'll take thread OK anyway. [URL=http://s65.photobucket.com/user/godtool/media/716FBB88-A276-40EC-8AB5-A6DBE2A54529.jpg.html] [/URL] [URL=http://s65.photobucket.com/user/godtool/media/3B03377F-A60E-44F9-AD69-F32810B78591.jpg.html] [/URL] Unfortunately the 5/32 bit went a wee bit out from 90 degrees yesterday. welding method is fastest, easiest way of anything tried. When the whole mess cools down, the space formerly occupied by the paper washer is now a clearance, and prevents the washer from binding on the surface. "@type": "Person", Another vote for welding a nut onto the broken bolt. Sorry that would probly be to fast and easy. I could have heated it up with my heater but figured save time by just drilling it out. One of the stuck causes that welding a washer and nut does not work is when a bolt that is long enough to bottom out and mushroom the end of the bolt to where it can not back out. Get your center right as early as you can. Most of the broken bolts I deal with are gauge bolts on propane tanks. The heat from welding will usually loosen them up. There was a group of four holes with two broken off. I have drilled out bolts that had the crap welded out of them trying to do it that way when it failed. This post has been really interesting , I get myself into all sorts of strife trying to remove broken bolts and really want to try the washer and weld trick . One time a stud broke off inside and I broke off easy-out. 5/16 is getting a little small for me tho. Someone had tightened a bolt to the bottom to where it would not turn out without tearing out the threads on the way out. I tossed some a while back I should have taken pics of. I know it sounds weak and crazy. It does not look pretty but hole is very usable and now I can attach my rad support side panel securely. I have gone the weld a nut to it with candle wax into the threads while hot route. You may need to grind some off your extractor to get the right fit, or grind your own extractor from some tool steel like a lathe bit blank. That was one location where it was going to be very difficult to drill out.

The neighbour's dog's ears turned blue from the swearing it heard . That gave me a drill guide to drill out the holes. Stub length ( also known as screw machine drills) are shorter and more rigid, and usually are a better grade. I bought a coulple left handed drill bits yet the one I used just drilled right through the bolt (which is good). I've taken my share out drilling close to tap drill size (always like to stay a little under to protect the threads) and then picked the bolt out with chisels and needle nose pliers. You must log in or register to reply here. I hope I didn't offend you, as well you didn't offend me by accusing me of guessing about something I had never done.

I then drilled the broken bolt holes with the proper tap size drill. It's not magic cast won't blow. I had to drill out several broken bolts in the front bolster of a Farmall H. I made my own drill guide using some scrap flat bar and steel plate. "publisher": { Get your center right as early as you can. On a 3/8 bolt I have drilled down the center and then used wire feed to fill the hole and welded a washer and nut on the top. I've used this method on brake rotor screws when the head strips, that kind of thing. I located the 1 flat bar to the 1/4 plate and welded it on. But I know now that no matter how badly I screw up my own attempts at broken bolt extraction there is someone who will undo the damage for $25. Use the best HSS or cobalt drills you have, go slow, use lots of oil keep it steady and straight. Sometimes a stud will break inside the hub. I tried welding a flat bar with a hole in it to one to see if I could tap it with a hammer. I will start doing that today. After not having heat do the job I would have drilled it, removed what threads that were left and it would have been forgot. your best bet is to weld washer then nut if that doesn't work harbor freight has a left hand drill bits. i only used nut's for years and welded down inside them.

your best bet is to weld washer then nut if that doesn't work harbor freight has a left hand drill bits. So hopefully it will come out in one piece. Then (to make it easy) weld a larger hex nut to the washer and again allow to cool to ambient before wrenching on it. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. He sells left hand bits and I bought a complete set. But try not to break it! 4 I can weld a nut or a washer and nut on the stud and have it out before you can get the pilot hole drilled To make a statement like this would only mean you have never done it and you base your expertise on opinion not experience. If the bolt happened to snap off above the hole, you can sometimes cut flats on it with a 3 cut off wheel and turn it out with a wrench. Regular jobber length drills tend to be more flexible and need more overhead room to maneuver. Welding a washer to it,then a nut by welding around the outside of it,instead of trying to weld through the little hole in the center of the nut is the way to go. Then weld a washer then a nut on and good chance it will come right out Heat it up then pour on some ATF let cool and heat again and more ATF. This was done with 1/4 plate. It's tedious but it works. I bought a coulple left handed drill bits yet the one I used just drilled right through the bolt (which is good). Weld the nut or washer but don't try to be neat , puddle the $hit out of it and get it hot as you can , use grade 8 nuts or washers , grab the puddle with vicegrips . After not having heat do the job I would have drilled it, removed what threads that were left and it would have been forgot. The carbide burr can also be used to pull an errant hole back to center. One time I had used my small round ended die grinder to clean-out hole and then tap and pick threads out. It may not display this or other websites correctly. "width": 200, A carbide burr in a pneumatic drill can dimple the face to prevent the drill bit from walking off center. Know what you are drilling into and how deep you can go. I was able to drill right through old bolt. Yes they will back out a stud most of the times. I was just trying to explain in the only way I know how that every case can be different. Some threads in the hub have been partially stripped by previous owners. Sometimes a stud will break inside the hub. If it snaps use a punch to shatter the remnants and pick it out with a scribe.

Get your center right as early as you can. He sells left hand bits and I bought a complete set. I've got a pretty good eye and can drill fairly perpendicular to a surface, but it is harder if you do not have a good reference surface to go by. If you last drill is the proper tap size drill it will lift the threads if care is taken getting it started. My two cents worth- use a stub length drill wherever possible. A carbide burr in a pneumatic drill can dimple the face to prevent the drill bit from walking off center. My two cents worth- use a stub length drill wherever possible. Go through the heat cool ATF cycle a couple of times and then try the lefties and drill with a cordless VERY slowly so you can stay on center with more control. it worked with stick welders best. the guy who showed me the flat washer trick, made the process even easier! If you last drill is the proper tap size drill it will lift the threads if care is taken getting it started. every time I used a left hand bit it was simple short work of complete lasting joy , that a few minutes before reversed a most perplexing problem.. "width": 200, "author": { I had to drill out several broken bolts in the front bolster of a Farmall H. I made my own drill guide using some scrap flat bar and steel plate. "interactionStatistic": { Lots of good advice on this post. This will only work with a magnetic drill- it will only get you into more trouble with a hand drill. Use magnification and a sharp scribe to make an x on the face of the bolt, then center punch. I agree every case is different. If that does not work I will hopefully be able to fit small drill in there and drill it and easy out it. I never get offended. Once I get through the bolt I may try heating it and using a Proto easy out. Then weld a washer then a nut on and good chance it will come right out Repeat the heating and allowing to cool to ambient temp several more times, then weld a flat washer to the remains of the bolt, using as much heat as you can. removing broken bolt in cast iron tractor frame>. I typically drill a couple of steps under tap size until I break through the bottom of the bolt. If it is bottomed really tight you might have a problem. I find with drilling grind it flat if possible and take time to centerpunch in exact center. To my surprise it moved when I bumped it with my glove trying to maneuver to get in line to hit it. I did not try the welding idea because my welder runs off a 220 diesel generator which was outside and it does not like to start in cold weather. I could never see the advantage.

For some reason I've never had the desire to weld or use a torch in those cases. I have removed broken bolts with a hammer and punch also. This was done with 1/4 plate. Old has the idea.

Is this bolt located near any other bolts/holes? You must have to be a whole lot smarter than me to get offended. I run a Dana 44 under the front of my 83 GMC 4x4 farm pick-up. The heat from welding will usually loosen them up. To my surprise it moved when I bumped it with my glove trying to maneuver to get in line to hit it. I have drilled out bolts that had the crap welded out of them trying to do it that way when it failed. To my surprise it moved when I bumped it with my glove trying to maneuver to get in line to hit it. I know it sounds weak and crazy.

However it does depend on how bad it is stuck. "@type": "ImageObject", The left hand colbalt bits are very sharp, expensive, and short.

Dick L: Great pictures! I spent the better part of last year pulling broken bolts and studs out of military aircraft. It was a 5/8" grade eight allen bolt. }, I take it this was meant for me! A handle welded on can be a godsend. This particular 5/16 broken off bolt is in a spot where my my drill may not fit. Someone had tightened a bolt to the bottom to where it would not turn out without tearing out the threads on the way out. [URL=http://s65.photobucket.com/user/godtool/media/716FBB88-A276-40EC-8AB5-A6DBE2A54529.jpg.html] [/URL] [URL=http://s65.photobucket.com/user/godtool/media/3B03377F-A60E-44F9-AD69-F32810B78591.jpg.html] [/URL] Unfortunately the 5/32 bit went a wee bit out from 90 degrees yesterday. I then had to drill it out and remove the threads with a tap. I've had trouble with old's method by cooking ATF in the threads, really seizing the bolt.

This is a common customer request for my shop. At the Hershey car show there is a guy who sells USA made bits and boy do they work nice! 3 How do you get the tap to cut only the bolt and not the cast threads? I have found for some odd reason if you heat something then pour ATf in it and heat it up again the ATF soaks in deep and that in turn makes it easy to get the part out after welding a washer and nut on I have found for some odd reason if you heat something then pour ATf in it and heat it up again the ATF soaks in deep and that in turn makes it easy to get the part out after welding a washer and nut on Heat it up then pour on some ATF let cool and heat again and more ATF. When drilling out bolts or studs, if you are able to use a magnetic drill, try using a two flute end mill ( slot drill ) or a centre cutting 4 flute end mill. Usually if the damn thing was seized that good it'll take thread OK anyway. Regular jobber length drills tend to be more flexible and need more overhead room to maneuver.