On the up side, sunscreens are p

2021/05/21

On the up side, sunscreens are pretty wellregulated in several parts of the world, and BP-3 is considered "safe as used" and is an allowed sunscreen agent everywhere.

We are massive vitamin C fans and have written about it inexcruciating detail. It is particularly common in cleansing balms and stick-type makeup products due to its ability to add body, hardness and slip to these formulas. This is not hard at all as plenty of nuts (such as flax, poppy or sesame seeds) and vegetable oils (such as sunflower or safflower) are rich in LA.

Roman Chamomile - thanks to its phenolic compound had some nice soothing and skin toning properties. If you are looking for one, this could be your thing. It has great spreadability, a good slip, and a silky skin feel. Best to avoid if your skin is sensitive. Apart from being an important skin-identical ingredient, it's also an emollient and stabilizer. It can be naturally found in geranium oil (about 30%) or rose oil (about 25%). Shea butter that's considered to be a magic moisturizer and emollient.

Normal (well kind of - it's purified and deionized) water.

It's one of the most commonly used thickeners and emulsion stabilizers. It does smellnice but the problemis that it oxidizes on air exposure and the resulting stuff is not good for the skin. Hexylene Glycol is also part a preservative blend namedLexgard HPO, where it helps the effectiveness of current IT-preservative, phenoxyethanol. The problem with it, though, is that it isnot photostable and degrades in the sunlight. It's also touted as a volatile (evaporates from the skin rather than absorbs into it) silicone alternative, especially to replace Cyclomethiconemixes. It also contains oleic acid, but not too much around 6-15%. It is a so-called polyunsaturated fatty acid meaning it has more than one (in this case two) double bonds and a somewhat kinky structure that makes LA and LA-rich oils a thin liquid.It is also an essential fatty acid meaning our body cannot synthesize.

A chemical sunscreen agent that absorbs UVB and short UVA rays (280-350nm) with its peak protection at 288 nm.

The downside of it is that it oxidises on air exposure and might become allergenic. It's also cosmetically elegant, has excellent spreadability and apleasant, moisturizing skin feel. Fatty alcohols have a long oil-soluble (and thus emollient) tailpart that makes them absolutelynon-drying and non-irritating and are totally ok for the skin. First, its molecules are small (228 Da) and very lipophilic (oil loving) and these properties result in very goodabsorption. Please try again later! Other than having a good safety profile and being quite gentle to the skin it has some other advantages too. It has nice antioxidant properties and can improve the microcirculation. It's a really promising candidate (see below), but while reading all the goodness about it in a minute, do not forget that derivatives not only haveto be absorbed into the skin but also have to beconverted to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid or AA) and the efficacy of the conversion is often unknown. It still often shows up in the ingredient list of soaps and other cleansers.

Linalool is a super common fragrance ingredient. Do not panic, these studies were not conducted on real humans under real world conditions. Unless you live under a rock you must have heard about shea butter.

beautylish So LA-deficiency in the skin seems to be connected not only to an impaired skin barrier but also to acne and smearing LA all over your face might help with your problem skin. It's quite a multi-tasker: can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacyor to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. Citronellol is a very common fragrance ingredient with a nice rose-like odor. A common fragrance ingredient with a nice rose-like smell. As for linoleic acid and the skin, LA is a really important little guy found naturallyin our skin. The well-known stimulant from coffee. Its often used together with ethylhexylglycerin as it nicely improves the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol. Can be derived from coconut or palm kernel oil. Overall, BP-3 is probably our least favorite sunscreen agent and we prefer sunscreens without it. According to famous dermatologist, Leslie Baumann while tocopheryl acetate is more stable and has a longer shelf life, its also more poorly absorbed by the skin and may not have the same awesome photoprotective effects as pure Vit E. A clear, odorless, very light emollient ester that helps to achieve light textures. Research shows that problem skin haslower levels of linoleic acid (and higher levels of oleic acid) than normal skin. Overall, linoleic acid is a multi-functional skin goodiewith barrier repairing, acne-reducing, and skin-lightening magic abilities. A form of vitamin E that works as an antioxidant. Well,it used to be referred to as microbeads, as it wasbanned in 2015 in the "Microbead-Free Waters Act" due to the small plastic spheres accumulating in the waters and looking like food to fish. Oxidizedlimonene cancause allergic contact dermatitis and counts asa frequent skin sensitizer. More often than not, it's used as aphotostabilizer rather than a proper sunscreen agent as it can protect formulas nicely from UV damage. Third,ATIP seems to have all three magic abilitiesof pure vitamin C: it gives antioxidant protection from both UVB and UVA rays, it increases collagen synthesis (even more than AA) and it has askin brightening effect by reducing melanogenesis by more than 80% in human melanoma cell cultures. On the skin, it is water-binding properties and helps to keep your skin hydrated. allowed 10% concentration) and it isnot photostable (looses 10% of its SPF protection in 45 mins) so it alwayshas to be combined with other sunscreens for properprotection.

As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. Chemically speaking, it comes from the attachment of sorbitan (a dehydrated sorbitol (sugar) molecule) with the fatty acid Stearic Acid, that creates a partly water (the sorbitan part) and partly oil soluble (stearic part) molecule. You can read all about the pure form here. It's one of the important lipids that can be found naturally in the outer layer of the skin. Bottom line: a really promising, but not well-proven vitamin C derivative that can be worth a try especially if you like experimenting (but if you likethe tried and true, pure vitamin Cwill be your best bet). The blend of these two (caprylyl glycol + phenoxyethanol) is called Optiphen, which not only helps to keep your cosmetics free from nasty things for a long time but also gives a good feel to the finished product. The typical use level of Xantha Gum is below 1%, it is usually in the 0.1-0.5% range. Might be helpful for dark circles, puffy eyes, as well as cellulite and hair loss. Protein fragments, aka peptides and growth factors derived from milk (whey). It counts as non-irritating, and unlike some other chemical sunscreens, it shows no estrogenic effect. It can be produced from most vegetable oils (in oils three fattyacidmolecules are attached to glycerin instead of just one like here) in a pretty simple, "green" process that is similar to soap making. A nice, multi-functional helper ingredient that's especially useful in sunscreens. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. It seems to be helpful with a bunch of things: atopicdermatitis, dry eyes, brittle nails, sunburn and even acne.

So this one is the famous peptidethat's marketed by its manufacturer as the "Botox in a jar". The essential oil coming from the flowers of bitter orange (which is the sister of the sweet orange we all know and eat). A helper ingredient that helps to neutralize the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. Its approved by Ecocert and also used in the food industry(E415).

We don't have description for this ingredient yet. So this all sounds really great, but these are only in-vitro results at this point. The famousomega-6 fatty acid,the mother of all-6 fatty acids in ourbody. If these magic three letters dont tell you anything, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, the most famous AHA. A handy helper ingredient thathelps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. Btw, Xanthan gum is all natural, a chain of sugar molecules (polysaccharide) produced from individual sugar molecules (glucose and sucrose) via fermentation. Its a solid white stuff thats very alkaline and used in small amounts to adjust the pH of the product and make it just right. A type fo sugar, usuallyrefined from cane or beet sugar. Regarding safety, BP-3 is somewhatcontroversial. Though chemically speaking, it is alcohol (as in, it has an -OH group in its molecule), its properties are totally different from the properties of low molecular weight or drying alcohols such as denat. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! It is also soothing and rich in antioxidants. A supercommon and cheap fragrance ingredient. Its a common fragrance ingredient that smells like lemon and has a bittersweet taste. It's a nice one to spot on the ingredient list pretty muchfor any skin type. First, it is stable (if pH < 5), easy to formulate and a joy to work with for a cosmetic chemist.

The study was a small (10 patients), double-blind experiment,and the formula did show some measurable anti-aging results. A chemical sunscreen agent that absorbs UVB and short UVA rays (280-350nm). We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. It can be used in concentrations ofup to 10% in the EU and up to 6% in the US. Waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. In-vivo (made on real people) tests showed that using 10% Argireline solution around the eyes for 15 days decreased wrinkles depth by 17%. A handy multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel and also boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives. Thefragrant essential oil coming from the flowers of Rose Geranium. A must-have ultra-emollient treatment for fresher, smoother and firmer-looking skin that contains broad-spectrum SPF 25 protection, too. A stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, that might have (in-vitro results) all the magic abilities of pure vitamin C (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener). Another thing Caffeine is used for in body care products is its anti-cellulite effects. It's one of the important lipids that can be found naturally in the outer layer of the skin. A popular, vegetable-derived oil-loving emulsifier that helps water to mix with oil. This trio is an easy-to-use liquid that helps to create nice, non-tacky gel formulas. It used to be used as microbeads as well but was banned in 2015 due to environmental reasons. rosemary, eucalyptus, lavender, lemongrass, peppermint and it's the main component (about 50-90%) of the peel oil of citrus fruits. Hexylene Glycol is also part a preservative blend namedLexgard. It's a film-forming and thickening polymer (a large molecule composed of many repeated subunits) that comes to the formula usually as part of an emulsifier, thickener trio (with C13-14 Isoparaffin and Laureth-7, trade named Sepigel 305). HA is famous for its crazy water holding capacity as it can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. Similar to other glycols, it's a helper ingredient used as a solvent, or to thin out thick formulas and make them more nicely spreadable. However, it is hard to know how much pure vitamin C or ATIP can be thanked. There is also some research showing that citric acid with regular use (think three monthsand 20% concentration) can help sun-damaged skin, increase skin thickness and some nice hydrating things called glycosaminoglycans in the skin. It's a petroleum derived emollient and thickener.

It cansolubilize somecommonly used UV-filterslike Oxybenzone or Avobenzone and it can also help to increase the SPF rating of sunscreens. It contains several fragrance components including linalool (around 30%) and limonene (around 10%) and has a lovely sweet smell. Its the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF,hyaluronic acid(HA).

The problem is that you want sunscreens on the top of your skin and not in your bloodstream, so for BP-3 this is a problem.

In general, the main component of citrus peel oils islimonene(86-95% for grapefruit peel), a super common fragrant ingredient thatmakes everything smell nice(but counts as a frequent skin sensitizer). It is not photostable so has to be combined with ingredients that help to stabilize it. It can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacyor to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. Not photostable and does not protect against UVA. For example, in case of AHA or BHA exfoliants, the right pH is super-duper important, and pH adjusters like sodium hydroxide are needed. The cosmetic's industry is trying to solve the problem by combining avobenzone with other UV filters that enhance its stability (like octocrylene,Tinosorb S or Ensulizole) or by encapsulating it and while both solutions help, neither is perfect. Well done by Obama. In theory, it can speed up the lipolysis process (the "fat burning" by our cells) andstimulate the draining lymph system that might lead to the improvement of cellulite. It'sideal to solubilizesunscreen agents and fragrances. As cosmetic chemistColins writes it, "its safety really is beyond any doubt". The unfancy name for it is lye. Homosalate isnot a strong UV filter in and of itself (gives only SPF 4.3 protection at max. The anti-inflammatory action of the Roman Chamomile is due to phenolic compounds and - according to manufacturer info- it also has some nice skin toning properties. Its in our products to make it smell nice. It is claimed to boostthe production of important extracellular matrix components(the gooey stuff between the skin cells) such as hyaluronic acid, collagenI and fibronectin. An AHA that comes from citrus fruits. LA deficiency leads to an impairedmore permeable skin barrier and the topical application of LA-rich sunflower oil can fix this issue rapidly (while oleic-rich olive oil did not have the same barrier repairing effect). If that's not enough, it also helps skin cell regeneration. Like most essential oils, it contains antioxidant and antimicrobial components, but the main ones are fragrant constituents. The theory is that it can inhibitthe activity of the 5--reductase enzyme that plays an important role in hair lossand allows a renewed growth phase of the hair. Its safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. It has a smooth spreadability and touch, and itgives a substantive film to protect and moisturize the skin. Also, we have to agree with TruthInAging, that it's not a collagen builder and not a preventer of structural aging (think vitamin C, AHAs or retinol); it's just a quick fix. Overall,Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate is an old-school chemical sunscreen agent. A Spanish University also did some research and found thatArgireline increased the level of skin moisturization and decreased both the depth and width of wrinkles "significantly". Hello, our favorite molecule that helps us wake up in the morning and then keeps us going through the day. In fact, a 2004 follow-up study to examine the estrogenic effect of sunscreens when used topically on the whole body found that "the endogenous levels of reproductive hormones were unaffected" (even though BP-3 could be detected both in plasma and urine, so its absorption is no doubt too good). The famousomega-6 fatty acid,the mother of all-6 fatty acids in ourbody. Once in the skin, it has nice antioxidant properties, meaning that it reduces the formation of evil free radicals and it mighteven be useful in preventing UV-induced skin cancers. It was already used by ancient Egyptians to help oil and fat magically turn into something else. A super common multitasker ingredient that gives your skin a nice soft feel (emollient) and gives body to creams. In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. Thats why a product containing linalool that has been opened for several months is more likely to be allergenic than a fresh one. A popular, vegetable-derived oil-loving emulsifier that helps water to mix with oil. If HA does not tell you anything we have a super detailed, geeky explanation about it here. A super common fragrance ingredient that can be found among others in lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot or jasmine. Its big advantage, though, is that it is a liquid and is excellent for dissolving other hard to solubilizepowder sunscreen agents, like the famous Avobenzone. Multi-functional helper ingredient in sunscreens. This trio is an easy-to-use liquid that helps to create nice, non-tacky gel formulas. An emollient plant oil loaded with nourishing and moisturizing fatty acids. Contains fragrant components that give it a nice sweet smell. A supercommon fragrance ingredient found naturally in many plants including citrus peel oils, rosemary or lavender. It gives very good protection acrossthe whole UVA range (310-400 nmthat is both UVA1 and UVA2) with a peak protection at 360 nm. Geraniol is a common fragrance ingredient. Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Oil, Whey Protein\Lactis Protein\Proteine Du Petit-Lait, You can read all about the pure form here, eating a healthy ratio of omega-6 to omega-3. It comes from the seeds of African Shea or KariteTreesand used as a magic moisturizer and emollient. :). In the UK, its actually the third most often listed perfume on the ingredient lists. The maximum concentration of avobenzone permitted is 5% in the EU and 3% in the US.

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