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Now we collect the parts to put the central piece of the rear motor holder together. Tenok is called an "adaptive vacuum cleaner" because the design does not rely on manufacturer-specific parts. Using light to make your object look just right is both art and science, so we found a pro who can break it down for you: McKay Nilson. It works like a lamp dimmer, but is suitable for higher current. You do so by screwing the screw that goes through the inner part of the motor-holder in and out. Step 82: Drill Into, But NOT Through the Wood. Privacy Policy corners with a pencil as shown in the pictures. It is possible to print the PETG-parts from PLA instead, but they become less flexible / break more easily. REAR OUTSIDE: Use a compass do draw a 143mm-circle in the center of this board. Step 60: Drill into, but NOT through the Boards! vacuum cleaner diagram working principle motor fan parts wiring filter project air science type types motors principal suction cleaners flow It is absolutely sufficient. When doing so, you can refer to the picture above for how to arrange the boards. Screw the TOP-board tight to the "H" with eight of the 35mm-wood-screws and 8 washers.

Later the TOP-board will be screwed and glued on top of the wooden "H". I included adaptors for single spiral (PP02-sXX) and double spiral (PP02-dXX) hoses. Now attach the power cord under the box with (2x) "PP05_Cable-Clamp" and two screws & washers each. across electrical noise capacitors motor terminals reduce adding around BOTTOM INSIDE / TOP INSIDE / LEFT INSIDE / RIGHT INSIDE: Add a vertical line per board. Insert PP17 with the tapering side first into PP14. There are three things you might wonder about when you look at the pictures: The reason for those irregularities is that when I shot the photos for the tutorial, the vacuum cleaner had a differently shaped handle that did not require printed parts, but an old belt. REAR OUTSIDE / FRONT OUTSIDE / INLET: Use a pencil to connect the corners of the square pieces with a line like on the other side of the boards. PP02-d42 fits a double spiral (d) hose with a 42mm-diameter. REAR OUTSIDE: If you happen to have a 143-mm drill that's very impressive and you can use it here. We start by making shock absorbers for the frontal motor holders. Flip the LEFT and RIGHT boards sideways and put the INLET-board in between so that they form the letter "H". Later you will need another small piece of wood (at least 130x20mm) to make the handle and while the grain direction is not important for the pieces we make in the current step, the handle needs to be grained in length, so try to save a 130mm long piece that is grained length-wise, Put the boards on the table in front of you as in the picture. There are five different rubber parts: Some are made from pieces of tube, others are cut out of the tube. Again we press the foil to the glue we have just applied. Step 23: Mark 40mm-holes & Draw a 143mm-circle. The ones that you put up now, will be the outside surfaces. DO NOT DRILL THROUGH THE WOOD! REAR OUTSIDE / FRONT OUTSIDE: Add a horizontal line per board. I know that this topic often feels alien and intimidating in tutorials, but don't worry, I made it quite easy to follow. One is a power regulator, that controls the motor speed and the other is a heat-sensor-switch (80C-rated, NC) that turns the vacuum cleaner off when it gets too warm. Our website uses cookies to enhance the site operation and understand traffic and website performance. Place the rubber cable-gasket in the already mounted outer part of the Cable-Holder (PP06) on the central wall that seperates the motor chamber from the bag chamber. Attach (4x) "PP1005_Motorholder-Front_outer-part" in the corners of the motor compartment witch two screws and washers each. In the next steps we will mark the positions for those small screw-holes. Now that the big cables are in, we can soon install the funtional electric components. f e(T5iGDI7 Now the rubber parts are finished and we can move on to the next step. Do NOT drill through the wood only drill 30mm deep into the wood.

The pieces you make will just not have the exact length in one direction). Attach "PP1001_Turbine-Gasket-Holder" with 4 screws and washers. Put glue on those surfaces of the INLET board that will be glued to the LEFT and RIGHT boards. Step 38: Assemble the Electronics Compartment. Trashed vacuum cleaners were not an uncommon site in NYC. Now add the same marks and lines on those side-surfaces as you did on the other side. LEFT-side-surface / RIGHT-side-surface: Add a vertical line per board. For that reason I found that it works best to cut it open at its peak. FRONT OUTSIDE: Align the printed part "PP01_Hose-Coupling_Base" with the marks on the board. It does not matter if the electric terminals come out of the bottom or the front both will fit. For the ABS parts you should put an enclosure around the printer / print-chamber to avoid warping. turntable Please enter your email and we will send an email to reset your password. In the first picture I circled all positions where you need to drill a 5mm-hole.

You can just ignore those details in the photos In the end they will disappear and we mount the updated handle. For that we will use the two slender wooden pieces we put aside earlier and remove some areas from them so we can run rope and the power-cord through. They serve well as guides for the cut. Doesn't sound like a fun reward? The holes in the corners of the adaptor should approximately align with the holes in the rubber parts and holes in the celtic cross, Before we fix the motor-adaptor to the celtic-cross, check if it will align well with the mounting-holes in the back of the motor. Attach "PP11_Front-Hatch-Gasket-Holder" and (4x) rubber hatch-gasket-pieces to the front hatch with 8 screws and washers. Screw the Hose-adaptor onto the hose like in the third picture (screws tight counter-clockwise). Tenok - DIY Vacuum Cleaner Made From Trash! Tie the bag to the bag-coupling (PP12) on the front hatch with a bow. INLET: Align the printed part "PP23_Central-Filter-Holder_Base" with the marks on the board. The unmarked backside of the boards should now be up.. Now mark the backside of the boards in the lower right corners as you shown in the pictures. Wrap two off the rubber-shock-absorbers around the printed part (third picture).

Now cut out the circular filter you traced on the micro-filter-fabric. To make it even clearer, I added the hose-size-range to each file-name like this: PP02-d38-PETG_2020-02-02_tenok_Hose-adapter_double-spiral_, Making the Box Preparing the Boards 1/2. When you made it this far, I guess you are already excited to put the whole thing together. Repeat the previous step 5 times, so you have six rear shock aborbers in total. The Hex-bolts should all be threaded across the whole shank: (4x) M8 hex-bolts, 60 mm long; It can be difficult to find fully threaded M8 bolts in that size. It does not matter to which of the two cables you solder it. Step 173: Installing the Power-Switch & Button. First cut a 75mm long piece off the tube. Do not touch the hatched areas around the edges yet. Step 31: The Boards After Drilling / Cutting. Refer to the drawing for how to arrange the boards correctly. Make a vacuum chamber from a pressure cooker. LEFT / RIGHT / INLET Flip the boards upside down sideways. Cut the foil at least 5mm (better 10mm) from the edge to avoid having a conductive bridge from the motor chamber to the outside later. Turn the box around, so you see the bag chamber. Drill about 13mm deep into the wood. Connect the remaining wire that comes from the box's central wall to one terminal of the motor (it does not matter to which).

To make it even clearer, I added the hose-size-range to each file-name like this: PP02-d38-PETG_2020-02-02_tenok_Hose-adapter_double-spiral_37-38mm. Slide it in with this side first and it will work. We need the NC-version because the switch shall let electricity through (=be closed) until it gets too warm and opens the circuit to stop the flow of electricity. Tip: Bicycle shops are a great source for old bicycle tube. The marks show where to drill 30mm deep 11mm holes for the office chair castors that we will use as wheels. Step 102: Place the Last Aluminum Foil Piece. I bought two 80x25cm boards and one 100x20cm board and cut them further in a maker-space.

If you can't make it happen, cut the hole in the rubber part a bit bigger, but make sure it still sits tight around the cable. Step 42: Trace the Screw-holes for PP11 & PP1009. 50) helix. Finally screw "PP16_Electronics-air-inlet_Lid" on top of the filter. 7.) PLEASE NOTE: Most office chair castors have 11mm-shafts, but some have 10mm-shafts. I included adaptors for single spiral (PP02-. 30mm: TOP OUTSIDE: Drill (2x) 30mm-holes where you made a 30mm-mark before. You won't want to stop vacuuming! To do so you need to place the clip on a bar of the celtic cross and push it towards the nut so that it slides onto the guide rails (on the sides of the bar) and around the nut. Step 179: Connect the Heat-Sensor-Switch 2/2.

The screw holes lie on the vertical mark. Use two screws and washers to attach the heat-sensor-switch to the TOP-board of the motor chamber. Essentially the two parts are identical, except for the hole where the power regulator is mounted because the bigger one also uses a bigger potentiometer with a bigger shaft. Tip: Often tubes have seam-lines that you can use as a guide so your holes end up on the same height. The guides on the outside of PP08 need to be aligned with the horizontal mark. Use the cardboard as a template and trace its shape on the rubber. Now trace the two screw holes with a pencil. Putting some scrap-wood between the clamp and the box avoids clamp marks. Now trace the 8 screw holes (two per print-part) with a pencil. Pull the power cord through the central square hole of the box's rear foot and then through the 8mm-hole in the bottom. Hackaday API. ALL BOARDS: Flip the boards upside down, so that they lie in front of you as in the picture. If you have to get a rubber hammer, it's definitely too tight. Now the electronics are ready to go into Tenok. For holding hundreds of your personal belongings. The result are marks that form diagonal crosses through the center of the boards. Make sure the screw-threads fit through them. Add two horizontal marks (one of them is the extension of a mark you made earlier). For all the cables I found the central hole of the cable tighteners was big enough, but if your cable does not fit through, get out a drill and show that 3D-printed thing who's boss. Now trace the two screw holes with a pencil. Align the feet with the edges of the bottom and clamp them to the box. The guides on the outside of PP1001 need to be aligned with the diagonal marks. Again BOTTOM-OUTSIDE should be on the OUTSIDE of the box we are building. Attach "PP1011_Outlet-Filter-Holder_outer-part" to the outside of the rear hatch with 6 screws and washers. Naturally TOP-OUTSIDE should be on the outside of the box we are building. This requires some effort. Align the printed part "PP1011_Outlet-Filter-Holder_outer-part" with the mark on the board. Why does the wooden handle suddenly look strange? Repeat the previous step with the opposing wall. Now that the outer parts of the frontal-motor-holder are mounted, we can prepare the inner parts. The guides on the outside of PP08 need to be aligned with the horizontal mark. Align the printed part "PP08_Cable-Holder-bottom_Outer-Part" with the marks on the boards. On the first picture you can see how the components were connected in the vacuum cleaner I took them from. instructions online about making such a bag, so I decided to just link one of them here, ### PLEASE NOTE: DETAILED PARTS LIST BELOW! Again we mount the power regulator as we did earlier. For this step you need the 3D-printed part "PP1007_Motorholder-Rear_wood-mounted-part". The screw holes lie on the vertical mark. REAR OUTSIDE: Align the printed part "PP1011_Outlet-Filter-Holder_outer-part" with the mark on the board. You can of course also look for another drawstring-bag-tutorial and follow that one I just did a quick search and there might be better ones. As soon as you are happy with the position of the adaptor, thread a strong thread through each of its corners, the underlying rubber parts, and the nearest hole in the celtic cross beneath it. Slide the (4x) M8-hex-bolts from behind into the four parts of the rear motor holder (PP1007) that we mounted to the wooden walls earlier. Align the printed part "PP01_Hose-Coupling_Base" with the marks on the board. Making the wooden enclosure does not require elaborate wood-working skills and all other structural parts can be 3D-printed using a standard FDM-printer like a Prusa. No worries, we will just sand the marks off in the end and they will not be visible on the finished vacuum cleaner. However 50mm long ones will also work with most motors. The materials you need can be divided into seven groups: Hose, pipe, floor-nozzle, motor, cables power-cord, power-switch and circuit-board (though we just want to keep the attached cables & cable shoes). Step 183: Collect Parts for the Rear Motor Holder. In the first picture I circled all positions where you need to drill a 5mm-hole. Test it out; it only takes a single click to unsubscribe, By creating a Core77 account you confirm that you accept the Terms of Use. BOTTOM INSIDE / TOP INSIDE: Draw vertical lines and marks positioned as in the drawing. Double thread means that two threads are running in parallel around the hose and if you follow one of the threads with your finger around the hose, you will notice with each turn that it looks as if you have skipped a thread, but that "skipped" thread is in fact the second thread that runs in next to the one you are tracing. I am by no means a professional at sewing, but making a drawstring-bag is luckily one of the easisest things you can make and is often recommended for absolute beginners. Stack the pieces on top of each other, make sure that the holes are aligned and pin the stack together. 4x office chair castors, 2x obsolete bicycle tubes and a synthetic scarf or other polyester- or nylon-fabric (min 50x25cm). Now take the 50cm-cable that we cut off the power cord earlier. Attach "PP08_Cable-Holder-bottom_Outer-Part" on the bottom inside the box with two screws and washers. Attach (2x) "PP10_Handle_Holder" with four screws and washers each. You can use found vacuum-cleaner hoses with an outside diameter up to 50mm. 8mm: BOTTOM INSIDE / INLET: Drill (2x) 8mm-holes where you made a 8mm-mark before. You can use a coin as screwdriver. Repeat the previous step with the rear hatch on the other side of the box. We start with the micro-filter-fabric: Get out the compass a draw a 132mm-circle on it.

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