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ks brilliant (especially in rare

   

Looks brilliant (especially in rare black/silver). Around town is a joy, ultra agile and the high seat position gives a good all round view. I just dont know for sure. If you never managed a rolling stoppie in your life you will on this puppy, trust me on that one. Despite getting on for 20 years old now, the DRZ 400 S is still a really popular model for those who enjoy a bit of light trail riding (remember, green lanes require your bike to be road legal and with an MOT) and if you go to forums such as Thumper Talk, which is all about single cylinder bikes, you will find a whole section dedicated to the DRZ 400. If this is inadvisable for another reason (please explain) what other options exist to decrease RPMs at high speeds? My bike has the ACT gears, Athena 4mm BB & Stroker 4mm crank.20Ltr Safari tank.Dirtbag panniers,screen ect. If you are looking for a bike that is the perfect companion for exploring your local green lanes on, look no further than a Suzuki DRZ400 S. Although there were a few DRZ 400 models before the S (and a DR350 before the 400), the original one only had a kickstart and while the E did have an electric starter and was road legal, it isnt as refined as the later S and is more a legalised enduro than a proper dual purpose trail bike like the S. Why is this important? Where did you get a 39T rear and who makes it. You go into a corner too fast and on the wrong line for example, you can put the excellent brakes on and throw it over a bit and you can knock it down a gear instantly and it's corrected and it doesn't complain and you don't need to even grab the clutch! And if you had enough on the street just jump off the tarmac and make your way through that lawn or park. (Only for site supporters of version 5.0 - 6.3 !).

As they say, YMMV. SinceSeptember 20th, 2005: Top speed about 95mph, does about 65-70 mpg. It is a real dual purpose bike and is great fun on a gravel road. What's all that KPH? Check out the Supermoto scene in Australia at. I have yet to find myself in a situation where I just couldnt make either 4th or 5th gear work for me. Which i can do myself. Ive got an E model that I love on the fire roads and trails but boy does it suffer when pushing it on highway connections. So my questions are: Out of the 2 sprockets on the drive-chain, the counter-sprocket is the front one directly driven by the motor, correct? Recently I fitted it with Avon Distanzia trail tyres and it has much improved the handling on the icy roads of Scotland. Since then, I've gone back to stock, but I've also added a big bore and done the 3x3. Buying experience: Bought it private. Its a great improvement over the DR 350 I rode for a long time but I do miss that 6th gear. You have a speedo (no fuel gauge), horn, lights and everything to be road legal and thats it.

Is this also the same for the 400 S, or would I need to change the primary drive ratio (2.960)? Owners report that in terms of mechanical failures, the single is very solid and your main worry comes from things vibrating loose. Thanks for the tip though these look awesome. Strengths: Looks funky, completely reliable, handles beautifuly, seriously cheap to run, excellent build quality (I mean it), good adjustable suspenion, breaks have good power and feel, unintimidating to ride but tons and tons of fun. If I get around to cams and carb, I'll likely go back to 38 in the rear. I started doing some internet research to learn more about the ACT gears. Why did you opt to go up one in the front vs. down 3 in the back? As you can see in the first chart above, if you are running 15/44 sprockets then with the ACT gears you are just shifting into 5th gear at about the same speed where you maxed out the stock DRZ in 5th gear. The riding i do is varied between forest trails, single tracks, back dirt roads and even a trip to the cape and I'm running factory gearing. Keep your oil checked and coolant system full and flushed clean regularly, especially in summer, and she'll be fine. I found a 2003 S model and began the build process. Thmuper, The brakes & handling are fantastic. 75 is not very comfortable on my DRZ 400 E You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. However, if you want a bike that can do both harder dirt riding and sustained highway riding at 70 mph then the DRZ transmission is sadly lacking. Also, seat is not the most comfortable on long journeys. I have size 12 feet and any contact with the side stand will kill the engine. You can thank my wife for letting me build this site Info on Advertising your product on the Gearing Commander web site. scJsHost+ Windblast (Cee Baileys now make a screen, I haven't tried it). Light, reliable and fairly cheap to buy, the DRZ is a bike that will plod on through just about any conditions. VAT no 918 5617 01 If so how hard was it. The FCR carb will change the fuel millage no mater what you do, youll get less mpg.

In stock form, the S model is good for easier dirt riding and for highway speeds up to about 55-60 mph. This is why i think it'd make an excellent 2nd bike for the winter/wet weather but not as a main bike. Pingback:DRZ finally, a wide ratio transmission | The Texas Adventure Company, So now the DRZ is the perfect ADV/dual sport bike for you? And can actually go off road. To be honest, messing about with the motor is best avoided as you will start to compromise its reliability levels. If so how to correct? Just exactly what I was searching for. "The SM is just as solid asthe off road version,but in snow with road going tyres it was hell. Would the ACT gears allow you to run 14/47 to meet your dirt needs but still provide a high enough 5th gear for highway speeds? I ride an R1 in the sunny weather, but if i'm going down country lanes i will take the DRZ. Even with a 14/47 combo 5th gear is still higher than a stock DRZ S model running the 15/44 sprocket combo. But what else does it need? Gives you speeds in different gears revs. If the bike doesnt start, check the switch on the clutch lever, which is prone to failing, and also the side-stand cut-out switch.

One leaky seal, sure, but 12 year old rubber is expected to fail. In the UK they remain a very popular bike with TRF members, so their forum is also worth putting up a post on if you want to know a bit more about them. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Only niggles are that you can't fit an alarm/immobiliser & gets a little bit light on the front around top end speed. But overall it's a character filled bike with a huge heart! And, Lord willing, Ill get to enjoy even more before my riding career is over. Did you install the gears yourself. its because of the pumper, that squirts fuel when you give it throttle. why "S" - soooo misleading! My thought process was that the big bore kit would compensate for the reduction in acceleration from the wide ratio transmission. The Cycle World test said that first was quite low so I'm thinking a higher final drive ratio might be more favorable as most seem to agree it gets stressed running highway speeds looking for a non existent 6th. Fuel consumption hasn,t changed & betters any of my mates DR650.Not as comfortable as the DR650 on the road ,the lighter weight more susceptible to wind buffering ,soon forgotten about once off road.I to have a buzz/resonance happening but only noticeable on rides more than 5 hrs with long Highway stretches.My previous ride was a BMW xchallenge which was to big for the trail riding I do now, so the KLX is close to what I need.I am 60 Yrs old & have a number of other bikes & this little machine is a thrill everytime I ride it. "In 2006 I bought myself an off road Susuki DR-Z400. The only comparison I can make with a stock DRZ is a mental one, comparing my modified DRZ to the two previous DRZs that I owned. It did die on me once when a relay failed.

Now that youve had this for a few years, would you do it again? A lot of the forums suggest preventative measures to help keep the DRZ reliable, so check these out and see if they make sense to do and are within your skill set. The SM did suffer from this problem in the beginning but now it seems to have cured itself and has done 7000 milesin 12months. The two complaints I have with the DRZ are buzziness at highway speeds (my hands go numb after about 30 minutes of riding at 70 mph) and wind. The OE exhaust note is fairly wimpy and a lot of owners fit an aftermarket unit, mainly as there is a fair chance it will get dented but also to enhance its noise. H Bauer Publishing are authorised and regulated for credit broking by the FCA (Ref No. So 70MPH = 7000 RPM. Currently the best dual purpose bike you can buy, and Suzuki can shift every one that they make for good reason-its a great bike Engine has enough power for gentle off-roading although it aint no 'crosser in terms of power (or weight for that matter). Currently restricted to 33bhp so haven't bothered with any mods until that comes off next year. Can easily be pepped up with the 3x3 mod. I can faithfully report that, for me and the type of riding I have done on the bike to date, the gap between 4th and 5th is not too large. FMF Ti full exhaust and iridium plug have freed up breathing and pickup, top fun but exhaust a bit noisy, so made baffle as I am a bit more responsible now (42)Finish easily marked but not treated with kid gloves. The stock DRZ S model tries to split the difference between the E and SM models by running a 15/44 sprocket combo, resulting in gearing that is simultaneously a bit too high for tough dirt riding and too low for sustained highway speeds. Here's a spreadsheet I use to calculate gearing.

It could also benefit from a belly pan . Of course, your mileage may vary. Youve certainly tried quite a few bikes to find the one.. It should be rite of passage for all bikers? Motor was rebuilt for the FCR carb a few thousand km ago though. But I was never able to decrease the buzz to a level I was completely comfortable with. I prefer this one here anyway. I think I'll be going back to the 14. Thanks for everyone's comments. Keep this site operational and become a site supporter. Great fun when compared to other 400cc+ supermotos and crossers. would love to hear your overall impression after a few years on it. thank you, Please enable JavaScript on your browser to best view this site.

And not just populated by UK fans, the DRZ was successful in America and Australia where its rugged nature made it perfect for exploring the wilderness on. Your notes on the build and personal observations are very insightful..I have book marked this write up to point others to, when they ask about the ACT wide ratio gears and are they right for me: An eternally difficult question to answerAnd on occasion I have said yes, and the rider was not as enthusiastic as you were.. to each his own. So it was time for some drastic decisions. While the gap between 1st and 2nd is noticeably wider with the ACT gearset than the stock DRZ, it is not so large as to make the bike less capable on challenging terrain. If I could casually drop $650 on a new set of gears I wouldn't be riding a DRZ hahaha.

This said, when I get a more powerful, faster and more high maintenance machine, I will definitely miss the DRZ, and will probably end up buying one again, just for the character of it. Prior to beginning this project I had two concerns. Currently you have JavaScript disabled.

Your email (so we can send you the answer). How heavy are you? GPS Speed in Km/h at RPM in Gear in selected setup: GPS Top speed for 49 final drive combinations in Km/h at M.P.RPM in Custom setup: RPM differences due to drive train setup changes: Chain Links Calculator for Generic Final Drive with new chain, Loaded Bike: Effect of final drive changes on links & wheel position. Ideally, you want you gearing on an SM (for a lot of the street riders) to be such that the bike tops out at the HP peak, that is the fastest it will go based on the current state of the engine. Where would you recommend ordering a 38T rear from? "They are really solid built bikes and well worth theirweight in gold.". Im just curious about the real world differences, Im heavily thinking about doing what you did but add a 4mm stroker to the mix. Is this also the same for the 400 S, or would I need to change the primary drive ratio (2.960)?

Its not uncommon for a theoretical good idea to end up disappointing in reality after the build But alas, that just gives way for more building..lol Id rather buy one done correctly then try to get this done myself. I have a dr650. light, powerful, responsive, great ("X/C") suspension. a supermoto? All times are GMT+10. See application chart for applicable models. Gav.

In terms of buying one, the DRZ isnt really much of a bargain. Bike" option. It seems like a tube of thread-lock is one of the most important tools in any DRZ owners kit and areas such as the front sprocket nut require a dab of it as a preventative measure. When I first got my bike, the previous owner had installed a 38 tooth rear with the 15 still up front. Riding the trails is only a small part of what a DRZ 400 S can do and with its pillion pegs, mirrors, softer engine tune and full instruments, the S makes for a good commuter as well as a weekend green lane explorer. In order to address my first concern I added a big bore kit from Cylinder Works. I had my DRZ dyno'd at 33bhp yesterday. One big mistake would be to get one of these and not fit a straight through pipe, as it sounds absolutely delicious, and everyone tells me this. Just exactly what I was searching for. I haven't heard of people changing just 2 teeth in the back, always up 3 or down 3. If the bike looks a bit tatty, dont worry as complete body kits are cheap to buy and you can even get a bigger capacity tank for serious adventuring.

It can deal with this and it didn't feel underpowered which is testament to its torquey nature. Shows the Gearing Commander Privacy Policy. The owner of ACT posted some RPM/Speed charts on Thumper Talk to give riders an idea of the difference between a stock DRZ and one with the ACT gears installed. I dont do terrain living in central L.A. so there was no sacrifice in terrain capability. Create an account to follow your favorite communities and start taking part in conversations. It took a while to get my foot position right as to not foul the stand.

Nick. Driven USA MX Rear Sprocket 520 Suzuki DRZ400 & DRZ400SM (00-08), Shopping cart software by: Cynch Medical Device Repair Software. I think it's worth the effort to Change to Wide Ratio Gearing, and besides, I LOVE to Modify Stuff ! Its very narrow and hard. If your riding consists of backroads and moderate dirt, then the stock DRZ transmission is just fine. I can usually cruise 70mph at 7k rpm with stock gearing which is 15/41 I think. It is a SK model, but had been fitted with Excel rims, Braking wavy discs, a Braking caliper,Renthal bars, Full Akrapovic titanium exhaust, bark busters, iridium mini indicators, Acerbis led rear light, and the number plate ends DRZ! I was debating whether to stay with the stock carb or go withe the FCR one and I ultimately decided to stay with stock because the big bore kit gave me the extra power I was looking for. var scJsHost = "https://";

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ks brilliant (especially in rare

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