ford 9n carburetor problems

"height": 57 }. Enter Our Dog Days of Summer BBQ Giveaway Now! The price was reasonable and it arrived quickly and was exactly as described. If you don't have it, you have to get it before you can properly diagnose a fuel problem. "@id": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/" John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation.

"@type": "WebPage", I cleaned out the fuel filters and checked to make sure it's getting plenty of fuel. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. thanks again to everyone who offered their help and advice. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. If you have a needle assembly like this one, you sometimes can remove just the needle assembly and clean the port with the carb still on the tractor. Reviewed in the United States on November 7, 2016. if i would have known that this was so easy i would have done it years ago. Reviewed in the United States on April 29, 2019, very nice fit, looks great. Always consult equipment operator's manual and follow safety instructions before operating or servicing any tractor or equipment, or attempting any task. If the ignition timing is too retarded you can get backfiring through the carb and will cause low power. Engine runs extremely well now and has plenty of power. Even new floats hang up must.

You can go that route until it quits and then clean it.you can also reduce plugging by cleaning additives added to the fuel. The timing advance plate was frozen solid due to corrosion and was stuck in a position that caused the timing to be extremely retarded. i found a 49 8n this past week has water coming out the exhaust and rear lift is weak other wise tractor is clean owner may sell since i now mow his pasture he said he might sell for 1500$, They must have gotten you the wrong part. I figured I would start a new thread since I think this is a different problem. Spark plugs are wet with fuel when removed. Trademark Office. Reviewed in the United States on July 26, 2016. Float drop is important too, the float can potentially hang open if it drops too far, can't remember what that spec is, I think around 1 9/16" or so. The distributor was new to the engine as described in the original posting, but more precisely was a used distributor and apparently possessed problems of its own like the original. I have had the experience that as the filter or settling bulb plugs or the fuel line gets obstructed or the carburettor with out any of these items gets grit into the jets a little choke becomes necessary to pull the gas through to keep the engine running. I put the old carbs back on and that goes away. engine picks up smoothly. meaning 2 different parts. I will check that out tomorrow. I decided to take it for a spin and see how it acted under load. Hope it helps, Al COIL!!! My '49(?) Turn the idle air screw in or out until you find the points where it, starts to run rough (too rich and too lean a mixture) then put the screw halfway between. Make sure you've thoroughly checked you ignition for nice whiteish/blue spark. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. ordered another for my other 8n ford. Got it running and excited for the spring. Commit thy way unto the LORD; trust also in him; and he shall bring it to pass. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", The timing advance plate was frozen solid due to corrosion and was stuck in a position that caused the timing to be extremely retarded. Mike The part about running rough after it heats up are symptomatic of a bad coil,however since you said it does restart but hard I wouldn't rule out a crack in the manifold either.This can be checked by spraying a little wd40 or carb spray around the manifold while its running.Be careful. Also, was there any sediment in the glass bowl..?? I had the same symptoms with mine. ign switch - - jumper around it when symptoms occur, condenser - - known to be bad right out of the box. Installed perfectly just like the old one . The engine fired right up with the carburetor jet in place and all adjustments were working properly. gas inlet. It does sound like you might have more than one problem here. Ford 8N tractor (front distributor) quit on me, and I saw that gas was running out of the bottom of the carb lower body. It is either poor timing (too advanced) or an intake value that is stuck/bent. I removed the lower body, and reinstalled with a temporary plug, but now misses badly. I did need to adjust a few air and fuel screws, but my tractor had sat for almost 2 years. My 9N runs fine, except when going up or down a hill. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. The engine fired right up with the carburetor jet in place and all adjustments were working properly. Of course I could be wrong, but you have the exact same symptoms that I had. "@type": "InteractionCounter", When you increase the RPM's the points tend to float and cause you to loose power making you think you have carburetor problems since your having to pull the choke knob. "name": "Russell Rigsby" Have to unscrew and remove the carburetor main fuel adjustment rod entirely before the engine will run smoothly. 2022 TractorByNet.com | TractorByNet is a registered trademark of IMC Digital Universe, Inc. Other trademarks on this page are the property of their respective owners. "@type":"DiscussionForumPosting", Engine runs extremely well now and has plenty of power. As the others have said firing order, bad valve. You must log in or register to reply here. The Rubbing blocks on the points are wearing and your gap is decreasing. "userInteractionCount": 7 New distributor,coil, points, etc. "text": "Neighbor and I share a 1941 Ford 9N. "@type": "Person", As soon as the throttle lever hits the carb, it wants to stall. problems with both carbs on both tractors. Copyright 2000-2020 by, SmokStak Steam Traction and Tractor Forums. So, I adjusted the carb as the manual says and with some help on other websites. You may need to adjust the throtlle adjustment screw up or, down as you do this. This page works best with JavaScript. Please use the navigational links to explore our website. The large plug underneath is a drain for the main jet well - debris collects here first and will cause serious running problems. The old arm was still good, but the internals came as a kit.so got the whole thing.

If the rpms rev higher you could be sucking air. Steve here is a better website to post this question. "datePublished": "2003-03-31", Any blue arcing or glow in the high tension wires, and you wil have found your issue. As a owner of a fleet of these N series tractors and your description of the problem points me to a problem I have had with over 3 dozen of mine. Up-side-down no air will pass. Check the inside of the distribution cap and rotor for carbon tracking and or corrosion at the distribution spark contacts. put on a newer carb from a different 8n that ran good 3 years ago before parked, when I went to start, it would bog down if I didnt have the choke half way out. Make sure the resistor is wired correctly and that it's good, put on a new coil. If the ignition timing is too retarded you can get backfiring through the carb and will cause low power. COIL!!! great product. They do fail over time. The dying after 20 minutes suggests either a coil going bad (overheating) or blocked fuel screens. Any help? TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. After viewing product detail pages, look here to find an easy way to navigate back to pages you are interested in. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more! After thoroughly reading a manual that was ordered, we removed the distributor, dislodged the frozen plate and adjusted the timing with a straight-edge in accordance with the manual. With the engine under medium to heavy load at half-throttle, snap the hand throttle open to "full". It is either poor timing (too advanced) or an intake value that is stuck/bent. In that position, it was necessary for the carburetor to dump as much fuel as possible into the engine just to keep it running and was the cause for the plugs gas-fouling after 20 minutes or so. After trying to accelerate and move around both have issues under load for a few seconds. Next, set the idle speed. It may be difficult to hear or sense fuel sloshing inside a leaking float. In that position, it was necessary for the carburetor to dump as much fuel as possible into the engine just to keep it running and was the cause for the plugs gas-fouling after 20 minutes or so. The distributor was new to the engine as described in the original posting, but more precisely was a used distributor and apparently possessed problems of its own like the original. { Please make sure that you are posting in the form of a question. you will need to open up the main jet , if it is adjustable & already out to the limit . If you have the actual spec., use a drill bit of the proper size as a gauge to measure from the top of the float to the gasket surface. JavaScript is disabled.

Russell Rigsby Thanks to everyone that posted a reply to our problem, which turned out to be in the distributor. Ok, thanks Barnstormer. "@type": "ImageObject", Good luck. After installation was done, turned the knob on the fuel bowl, watched the fuel flow. "@type": "Organization", "interactionStatistic": { SMOKSTAK is a Registered Trade Mark in the U.S. Backfire is not caused by a fuel problem. Right-side-up air will pass easily.

Mike Check plug wires..Firing order is 1243..These motors will run if the wires are crossed.. The dying after 20 minutes suggests either a coil going bad (overheating) or blocked fuel screens. Looks like I need to check my points. The float can be roughly adjusted if you turn the carb upside down and the float should be very close to parallel to the airhorn gasket surface, gasket in place. Then occasionally the carb floods and gas pours out the carb. hth MountainmanCA Make sure your air cleaner is clear of any nests or such though that wouldn't explain the backfiring. something must be clogged in the carburator. I am assuming the fuel is not from 1947. Any suggestions? JavaScript is disabled. The Fora platform includes forum software by XenForo, Outdoor Hub, LLC (d/b/a Carbon Media Group), 30800 Telegraph Rd, Suite 1921, Bingham Farms, MI 48025 USA. The only thing I've had to adjust is the idle screw. The timing indicator tab on the exterior of the distributor under the adjustment bolt was missing and subsequently there was no way for us to have known it was supposed to be there and the timing to be located at the far other end from where it was. I have to back the throttle way off back down to idle to keep it running, then when I advance it again it starts lurching again. A buddy of mine did a complete rebuild on his 9N last year, and I found a place that had the internals at a much more reasonable price. Make sure your air cleaner is clear of any nests or such though that wouldn't explain the backfiring. The part about running rough after it heats up are symptomatic of a bad coil,however since you said it does restart but hard I wouldn't rule out a crack in the manifold either.This can be checked by spraying a little wd40 or carb spray around the manifold while its running.Be careful. I had a 8N that did the same thing, I found the main adjustment threads waowed out and sucking air, new carb fixed the proplem. Also the seat of the needle & seat assembly may have loosened and started backing out. coil - - the most likely suspect. "description":"Discussion of 1941 Ford 9N Carburetor problems in the Tractors forum followed by comments. have been a casting irregularity in the body. ", It would stall as soon as I dropped it in the grass. "@type": "ImageObject", What would cause this? Though that doesn't explain the 20 minutes which is more common with a bad coil. "author": { JavaScript is disabled. The engine should pick up the load smoothly. Reviewed in the United States on July 14, 2022. Would order again. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", Thanks to everyone that posted a reply to our problem, which turned out to be in the distributor. Marvel Schebler carbs. The dying after 20 minutes suggests either a coil going bad (overheating) or blocked fuel screens. If the float is, hanging up, the valve won't seal and air will always pass. ", }, What a difference this carburetor made on my 1948 Ford 8N! Might be the thing to try next. In this case you must disassemble, the body and try to bend the float just a little. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V. window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[];function gtag(){dataLayer.push(arguments);}gtag('js',new Date());gtag('config','G-04SJ2KTSCK',{cookie_flags:'max-age=7200;secure;samesite=none'}); Welcome! If you don't have it, you have to get it before you can properly diagnose a fuel problem. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. If spark is good, you should have detonation of fuel UNLESS your compression is bad or if timing is way, way off. They can break down with age, shorting or cross firing when the electrical resistance in the wire covers goes bad. Well, maybe I'm an Idiot? but , I don't remember seeing that part. I have rebuilt the carb, but I suspect the float is sticking. Have removed carburetor and adjusted float & needle and seat. It also analyzed reviews to verify trustworthiness. Once upon a time it was a brass plug filter - similar to the old brass fuel filters used in GM (Rochester) carbs. I would think that the carb is getting out of adjustment or you have an intake leak somewhere, but there are some super savoy 9N members here that would likely shed more light on this for you. The main jet should be at 1 to 1 1/2 turns out from seated as a starting point try it then if it stalls open the jet a 1/2 turn and try again. Good carb and almost as cheap as a rebuild kit, Reviewed in the United States on September 17, 2021. You must log in or register to reply here. The old man I got it from just put new points/condenser in it before I bought it. After numerous adjustments, it was still no better. "interactionType": "https://schema.org/CommentAction", I read a comment from a guy online stating that he removed the float and found that the float had fuel in it from a tiny pin hole leak. The Fora platform includes forum software by XenForo, http://www.mytractorforum.com/38-ford-ns-9n-2n-8n/769274-does-my-governor-need-rebuilt.html, Backyard Round Table: L & G Tractor Related Topics, VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter Street, Suite 600, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. I climbed into the seat and she fired right up! After thoroughly reading a manual that was ordered, we removed the distributor, dislodged the frozen plate and adjusted the timing with a straight-edge in accordance with the manual. "height": 57 I have recently started having to use the choke so the engine will run smoothly after reaching operating temperature. If a replacement does NOT fix the problem, then you may have an extra 'good' coil. thanks again to everyone who offered their help and advice. I got the idle down and it sounded almost perfect at full throttle. We discovered it by seeing it in a picture in the manual we received. screw until the engine is running at 400 rpm. whats causing the carb to bog down when the needle is set at the correct setting? A forum community dedicated to all tractor owners and enthusiasts. I had the same symptoms with mine. Repeat this, process (a dozen times or more) until you get it right. "dateModified": "2003-03-31", They do fail over time. Make sure your air cleaner is clear of any nests or such though that wouldn't explain the backfiring. Check plug wires..Firing order is 1243..These motors will run if the wires are crossed.. That means there is a definite plug in the flow that has to be removed and this problem generally slowly gets worse until the engine won''t stay running. Would appreciate any help or ideas anyone has about the cause of the problem. are notorious for floats going bad and taking on gas, shake the float to see if this has happened. The wire should be soft and supple, and should be wire core (like Packard 440) , not carbon core as used in modern autos. Cleaned it several times . engine and warm it up fully. Just a couple of fine-tuning adjustments and my tractor was purring at 400 rpm without hiccuping or stalling out. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Though that doesn't explain the 20 minutes which is more common with a bad coil. thanks again to everyone who offered their help and advice. -Psalm 37:5-. as well. I only wanted a fresh new look but something isnt right twice. }, When in gear it lurches forward, then starts to die, then lurches forward again. If spark is good, you should have detonation of fuel UNLESS your compression is bad or if timing is way, way off. They do fail over time. Hard to re-start. You may benefit by adding an inline fuel filter, you may have to clean out the gas tank if there is too much matter in it. Would appreciate any help or ideas anyone has about the cause of the problem. It may not display this or other websites correctly.

Re-assemble and test again. Once plugs have been cleaned and fuel adjustment rod is removed, engine starts and runs fine for approximately 20 minutes, then starts rough idling and finally stalls. Had to use old ones . Come join the discussion about specifications, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more! "headline":"1941 Ford 9N Carburetor problems ", will take apart carb and inspect it after I get the hydraulics put back together on the tractor. It will soon be cleaning time I think for your machine. If rod is in place prior to starting, engine will not start or run. Also, the secondary air mixture screw has no effect on engine idling or performance as well, either adjusting all the way in or out does not change engine idle or fuel air balance. The N series carb has 3 adjustments, the idle air screw (on the right side of the carb), the main adjustment screw (on the front of the carb) and the throttle adjustment screw, Any adjustment is useless unless the timing is checked and correct and the plugs are, Turn the main adjustment screw and the idle air screw in until you feel them "seat" -, don't force them, just finger pressure. Carb is a perfect fit. We never did change out the spark plug wires. I had the same symptoms with mine. Hope it helps, Al The part about running rough after it heats up are symptomatic of a bad coil,however since you said it does restart but hard I wouldn't rule out a crack in the manifold either.This can be checked by spraying a little wd40 or carb spray around the manifold while its running.Be careful. When I opened the throttle full it quickly rose to 2200 rpm--again without stalling out or hiccuping. I would take the carb to them & show them the part you need. Of course I could be wrong, but you have the exact same symptoms that I had.

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